There is a widespread epidemic: the unjust policing of bodies.
Regaining control is about taking back authority over the self. An emphasis has been placed on the importance of body autonomy, as opportunities for self-expression have been stripped from the individual. In response, externalizing one’s sexuality has become an opportunity for regaining control over the self.
Now and moving forward is a time of embodiment.
The Fashion Trend:
Regaining Control
For my Fashion Forecasting course, I was asked to observe current fashion trends and deduce a theme based on today’s zeitgeist. The following is what I have predicted for womenswear s/s ‘24.
THEME
THEME
NOW
Target Market
The target demographic for this forecast is Roxanne.
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The target demographic for our forecast is Roxanne, a 21 to 34 year old single woman. Her job as a bartender revolves around the late-night party scene, so of course she enjoys socializing with others, but typically keeps to her close-knit group of friends. While Roxanne’s employment and lifestyle coincide, her hobbies outside of work include listening to music and discovering new alternative artists. Working in a diverse environment also impacts her morals and beliefs, leaving her open-minded to the world around her. Roxanne’s free-spirited nature influences her ability to be exploratory in all aspects of her life, including her sexuality. Roxanne’s curiosity in life has lead her down many Internet rabbit holes, including a deep-dive into KinkTok, an online TikTok BDSM community. This willingness to try anything once puts her at the forefront of the Roger’s Innovation Diffusion model, making her an early acceptor of new trends.
TEXTILES
TEXTILES
There are eight dynamic fabrics that will be popular within this trend. The fabrics on this slide have roots within the kink community. Latex was a key fabric used within garments shown in Versace’s Fall/Winter 2022 runway show. While it has a traditionally medical history, the underground fetish world has been using latex fabric to construct bodysuits, gloves, stockings, and other garments since the 1940’s. As latex became more mainstream, a more accessible, hypoallergenic version of latex was manufactured, Polyvinyl Chloride, or PVC. Its hand is similar to latex and is often used as an alternative fabric in the case of allergies or expense. Plastic Leather, or “Pleather,” is an artificial leather that is treated and finished so that the aesthetics of the fabric, as well as hand and surface feel, are almost identical to real leather. The fabric mimics the use of real leather used within the leather kink subculture. Mylo Unleather is a new, innovative faux leather that is made from fungal undergrowth, also known as “mushroom leather.” While new to the market, Mylo has already been used in many different runway collections featuring gothic-style looks. These fabrics are about emphasizing the body’s silhouette. Econyl is a new, innovative, regenerated Nylon made entirely from waste products that creates a tight-fitted, provocative silhouette and Velvet’s soft hand romanticizes any evening look. Knitted mesh fabric has a sheer stretch that creates a scandalous reveal of skin. Mesh is a fabric growing more popular with designers, as it is seen regularly on the runway throughout Spring/Summer 2022 shows across the globe. With the reemergence of 90’s fashion trends also comes a throwback to traditional vintage denim, a classic fabric found consistently throughout time.
The prints and patterns chosen for this forecast cover a vast range of aesthetics associated with alternative fashion, such as Rosette floral, Tartan plaid, and Checkerboard. As the Spring/Summer 2024 season occurs, many different symbols of personal power will be seen; crocodile skin is no doubt a part of the mix. Trompe L’oeil is a technique that creates a three-dimensional optical illusion, that has recently been used for a different purpose; to allow women to further embrace their sexuality. Patchwork denim began in the 70’s as a DIY experiment, but 50 years later modern fashion is reintroducing the pattern. The iconic trims and details that are seen in traditional gothic fashion culture are beginning to enter modern mainstream fashion. Buckles are seen adorned on harnesses, a clothing accessory that has made its way into evening wear. Seen as a piece essential to fetishwear, the harness is traditionally used to restrain Submissives, but has found its way onto the chests, waists, and hips of fearless trendsetters as a statement of dominance instead. Safety pins have been around for a long time within the gothic-grunge fashion scene. In the 1970s, safety pins emerged to popularity because of the cultural influence of punk rock music. Through the trickle up effect, it has made its way to the runway. Chains are a crucial part of gothic-style outfits, a bold detail often hung alongside the belt loops of pants or the waist of a skirt. This detail connects back to BDSM practices; chains are sometimes used as restraints.
LOOKS
LOOKS
KEY ITEMS
KEY ITEMS
The Takeaway
This women’s wear micro-trend forecast depicts the story of women learning to regain complete autonomy over their body. Regaining Control is symbolic of a leader that is powerful, determined, and sexy – in fashion and her everyday life. While having an obligation to live the life of a shut-in, individuals took time to reevaluate themselves from the inside out. Following the pandemic, society is taking more risks with their personal style as a form of demonstrating the control they have over themselves and their physical space. Regaining Control is part of a broader cultural trend that promotes women's empowerment and self-expression.